Apple Sauce and Armadillos

Yesterday, I learned how to draw an armadillo.  For those of you that were worried, rest assured, I finally fulfilled this lifelong dream. It was an exciting moment that I experienced very much . . . alone.

Some of you are aware that I am living the life of a semi-retired 34-year old and you might wonder how I spend my time. 

So, to fill you in, I have actually been doing a little work since the end of Ramadan. I coordinated a camp with other volunteers at my Dar Chabab.  It was a blast, and after the camp was over, both  my idealism and realism about my capabilties as a volunteer were realized.  My good friend created a video about the camp confirming that we are indeed actually working in Morocco.  I emailed the video to the Peace Corps Director, who in turn used it as a motivating training video for other volunteers.  She also sent it to the American Embassy, and they would like to use it on their website. 

I attended several trainings/workshops in September in Oarzazette, Marrakesh, and Rabat. In Oarzazette, I studied yet another language, TashelHit.  TashelHit is a Berber language spoken in many regions in Morocco, including Massa.  I love learning new languages, but TashelHit also carries the dreaded g-r gargle gurgle sound that is very challenging for foreigners (especially me) to make.  I come from Wyoming, for $%#^ sakes.  Every time I make the sound incorrectly, which is every time I make the sound, someone stretches out their neck and gargles at me in an attempt to teach me how to say it properly. Both Darija and TashelHit are heavily populated with this devil letter. 

In Marrakesh, the most touristy city in Morocco, I was reunited with the 100 other volunteers that I came to the country with to attend a training workshop.  Marrakesh is beautiful, but the lingering memory I have of this city is of monkeys on chains and starving horses. I am going back there next week, and hopefully I will come away with a more balanced view. 

In Rabat, I attended a workshop with my Moroccan counterpart about teaching life skills to Moroccan youth.  We hope to coordinate these activities in the spring, when my language skills are up to the challenge. 

The first night I returned to my apartment, I was delighted to cook myself dinner and be alone.  Several days later, things started to go south.  Let me paint a picture:  I spend almost all of my time alone when I am in Massa.  I work in my apartment on lesson plans, studying, etc., and go to the Dar Chabab for 1-2 hours, some days I don't go at all. Hence, the armadillo.  In an effort to maintain my sanity, I have created a list of daily activities: Study, exercise, go outside, do a chore, learn something new. The armadillo was my "something new" yesterday.  Today, I learned to make apple sauce.  Tomorrow, who knows? The world is my oyster.

Seriously though, good things do happen here.   Cross Cultural Solutions, the organization in Rabat that I volunteered for 2 years ago, invited me to come and speak to their current volunteers.  When I was riding in a taxi a couple weeks ago, the taxi driver told me "I am so happy that you are trying to learn my language."   I am often greeted with excitement and appreciation when I attempt to speak Darija or TashelHit. 

I don't want to get on a soap box, but with the current political climate, I believe even more strongly in being here.  Chris Stevens, the American Ambassador that was killed recently in Libia, was a Peace Corps Volunteer in Morocco in the 1980's.  They recently had a day of remembrance for him in the community he lived in, and many expressed sadness at the events that lead to his death.  Let me just say this: I am American, I am grateful for my many blessings.  I live in an Arab nation and have many friends that are devout Muslims.  Friends that have welcomed me into their homes and hearts with no questions asked.  Friends that keep me safe, sheltered, and well-fed.  Please remember this if you hear anyone making any disparaging remarks about Arab or Muslim peoples. 

Oh, I also learned how to draw a platypus. 

Ramadan was over a couple weeks ago, so I can now share a few of my personal experiences with this Muslim holiday.  Let me warn you beforehand, this is not a story about my personal transformation into a more blissful life.   In an attempt to culturally intergrate and experience some rejuvenation and sacrifice of my own, I attempted to fast.  On the first day, at 120 degrees, I stayed in my house most of the day, waiting for the call to prayer at 7:39ish to tell me that I can eat and drink.  I went to "break fast" with my host family.  I experienced the longest 10 minutes of my life from 7:29pm-7:39pm, as food was placed in front of me but I still could not eat it. After the call to prayer indicating the end of the fast, we ate the traditional meal of harrera (soup), dates, and shebekiya (sweet nutty thing). This is also often served with milk and a hard boiled egg.   I also had coffee, juice, and pasta.

The second day I traveled to Casablanca with Leslie.  Leslie was a volunteer who showed me the ropes in Massa and was scheduled to return to America that week after serving in both Albania and Morocco.  We stayed with a friend of hers, who had a luxurious apartment: hot shower, balconies overlooking Casablanca, fluffy towels, and Honey Nut Cheerios.  That evening Leslie and I searched for a restaurant in which to break fast in, but we were unable to find a suitable place.  We ultimately found a Pizza Hut and ordered pizza to go, and ate it in front of the TV while watching American television.  After, we went to Starbucks and ate cheesecake.  It was indulgent and lovely.  On the third day, Leslie went to visit friends while I decided to stay in.   I took a long hot shower, washed and dried my clothes, watched tv, and took a nap,  Leslie's friend made us omelets with American cheese to break fast, and then we went to Rick's cafe (of Casablanca fame, but built after the movie) for dessert.  On the way in the taxi, I started to have hot flashes, and when we went to the restaurant I threw up what little food I had eaten.  I had to visit the bathroom several times while we were there, but I started to feel better before leaving and was able to choke down a banana split and a coffee. 

During Ramadan, there are several exceptions to the obligatory fasting.  This includes exceptions for the elderly, children, the ill,  the menstruating, or the traveling.  On the fourth day, I decided that since I was traveling, I didn't need to fast until I returned to Massa.  The Honey Nut Cheerios and Raisin Bran that were available for breakfast may have been the beginning of my fasting demise.
We traveled to Rabat that day and I stayed there for 3 days, eating 1-2 times a day at the only restaurant that was open until the evening: McDonald's.  It was disturbingly delightful. 

So, on the day that I returned to Massa, I fasted.  I broke fast by myself in my apartment with dates, fresh vegetables, scrambled eggs and orange juice.  When I woke up the next morning, I decided that  I wanted to enjoy my life.  I need food and drink to enjoy my life, so that was the end of my fasting.  I am sure that my reason for ending my fast are shallow and miss the point, but I can assure you that I now savour my coffee a little more every morning. 

Also, during Ramadan, most activity in Morocco comes to a halt.  So, there is not really any work to do.  The first week I returned to Massa I watched every season of "Friends."  The next week I was more productive and got back on track with exercise and studying Arabic.  I also learned several new things too, I drew a palm tree with oil pastels and I gave myself a haircut.  I also cleaned my computer with a q-tip and stared at my own hands for awhile, amazed by their beauty and functionality.  It is amazing what happens when you spend too much time alone . . .

Please be sure that you read my previous post explaining Ramadan, as I don't want my hedonism and gluttony to minimize the importance and relevance of this holiday. 

   

 

Massa II

Massa

Massa

Massa

Massa Cat

Entry way to home in Massa

Hrf S3ir (little lamb) at my Host Family's house in Massa

Sun in Agadir, only on my right shoulder.

Ramadan starts tomorrow . . .

Ramadan is the ninth month of the Islamic lunar calendar. Every day during this month, Muslims around the world spend the daylight hours in a complete fast.
Answer: During the blessed month of Ramadan, Muslims all over the world abstain from food, drink, and other physical needs during the daylight hours. As a time to purify the soul, refocus attention on God, and practice self-sacrifice, Ramadan is much more than just not eating and drinking.
 Muslims are called upon to use this month to re-evaluate their lives in light of Islamic guidance. We are to make peace with those who have wronged us, strengthen ties with family and friends, do away with bad habits -- essentially to clean up our lives, our thoughts, and our feelings. The Arabic word for "fasting" (sawm) literally means "to refrain" - and it means not only refraining from food and drink, but from evil actions, thoughts, and words.
 During Ramadan, every part of the body must be restrained. The tongue must be restrained from backbiting and gossip. The eyes must restrain themselves from looking at unlawful things. The hand must not touch or take anything that does not belong to it. The ears must refrain from listening to idle talk or obscene words. The feet must refrain from going to sinful places. In such a way, every part of the body observes the fast.
 Therefore, fasting is not merely physical, but is rather the total commitment of the person's body and soul to the spirit of the fast. Ramadan is a time to practice self-restraint; a time to cleanse the body and soul from impurities and re-focus one's self on the worship of God.
http://islam.about.com/od/ramadan/f/ramadanintro.htm