Friday, August 31, 2012

Ramadan was over a couple weeks ago, so I can now share a few of my personal experiences with this Muslim holiday.  Let me warn you beforehand, this is not a story about my personal transformation into a more blissful life.   In an attempt to culturally intergrate and experience some rejuvenation and sacrifice of my own, I attempted to fast.  On the first day, at 120 degrees, I stayed in my house most of the day, waiting for the call to prayer at 7:39ish to tell me that I can eat and drink.  I went to "break fast" with my host family.  I experienced the longest 10 minutes of my life from 7:29pm-7:39pm, as food was placed in front of me but I still could not eat it. After the call to prayer indicating the end of the fast, we ate the traditional meal of harrera (soup), dates, and shebekiya (sweet nutty thing). This is also often served with milk and a hard boiled egg.   I also had coffee, juice, and pasta.

The second day I traveled to Casablanca with Leslie.  Leslie was a volunteer who showed me the ropes in Massa and was scheduled to return to America that week after serving in both Albania and Morocco.  We stayed with a friend of hers, who had a luxurious apartment: hot shower, balconies overlooking Casablanca, fluffy towels, and Honey Nut Cheerios.  That evening Leslie and I searched for a restaurant in which to break fast in, but we were unable to find a suitable place.  We ultimately found a Pizza Hut and ordered pizza to go, and ate it in front of the TV while watching American television.  After, we went to Starbucks and ate cheesecake.  It was indulgent and lovely.  On the third day, Leslie went to visit friends while I decided to stay in.   I took a long hot shower, washed and dried my clothes, watched tv, and took a nap,  Leslie's friend made us omelets with American cheese to break fast, and then we went to Rick's cafe (of Casablanca fame, but built after the movie) for dessert.  On the way in the taxi, I started to have hot flashes, and when we went to the restaurant I threw up what little food I had eaten.  I had to visit the bathroom several times while we were there, but I started to feel better before leaving and was able to choke down a banana split and a coffee. 

During Ramadan, there are several exceptions to the obligatory fasting.  This includes exceptions for the elderly, children, the ill,  the menstruating, or the traveling.  On the fourth day, I decided that since I was traveling, I didn't need to fast until I returned to Massa.  The Honey Nut Cheerios and Raisin Bran that were available for breakfast may have been the beginning of my fasting demise.
We traveled to Rabat that day and I stayed there for 3 days, eating 1-2 times a day at the only restaurant that was open until the evening: McDonald's.  It was disturbingly delightful. 

So, on the day that I returned to Massa, I fasted.  I broke fast by myself in my apartment with dates, fresh vegetables, scrambled eggs and orange juice.  When I woke up the next morning, I decided that  I wanted to enjoy my life.  I need food and drink to enjoy my life, so that was the end of my fasting.  I am sure that my reason for ending my fast are shallow and miss the point, but I can assure you that I now savour my coffee a little more every morning. 

Also, during Ramadan, most activity in Morocco comes to a halt.  So, there is not really any work to do.  The first week I returned to Massa I watched every season of "Friends."  The next week I was more productive and got back on track with exercise and studying Arabic.  I also learned several new things too, I drew a palm tree with oil pastels and I gave myself a haircut.  I also cleaned my computer with a q-tip and stared at my own hands for awhile, amazed by their beauty and functionality.  It is amazing what happens when you spend too much time alone . . .

Please be sure that you read my previous post explaining Ramadan, as I don't want my hedonism and gluttony to minimize the importance and relevance of this holiday.